6330 Camellia Ave, North Hollywood, CA 91606
(818) 536-7759
⭐ 5.0/5 — 10 reviews | NADCA-Certified Air Duct Cleaning | CSIA-Certified Chimney Sweeps | NFPA 211 Compliant | Licensed & Insured · LA County | Same-Day Service Available | Free Written Quote
Dans Hollywood Chimney & Air Duct Cleaning
Dans Hollywood
Chimney & Air Duct
Crushed, Illegal or Badly Routed  ·  From $149

Dryer Vent Repair, Rerouting and Replacement

If your dryer still takes two cycles a month after the vent was cleaned, the duct itself is the problem. Crushed runs, prohibited foil flex, too many elbows and screened terminations — all fixable, usually in half a day.

✓ Code-Compliant Rigid Metal ✓ Fire Risk Assessed ✓ Proper Backdraft Damper ✓ Airflow Verified After ✓ 5.0/5 — 10 reviews
Code-Compliant Material
Rigid metal, never foil
Fire Risk Addressed
Not just drying time
No Screens Fitted
They clog in weeks
Half-Day Job
In most houses
Direct Answer — Dryer Vent Repair Pricing

Dryer vent repair starts at $149 for a crushed duct behind the dryer — the most common fault, and one that frequently fixes drying time on its own. Replacing prohibited foil or vinyl flex with rigid metal is from $249, and a full re-route is from $399. Call Dans Hollywood Chimney & Air Duct Cleaning at (818) 536-7759.

BEST VALUE
Crushed Duct Repair From $149

Rigid periscope behind the dryer

Foil / Vinyl Flex Replacement From $249

Replaced with code-compliant rigid metal

Full Vent Re-Route From $399

Shorter path, fewer elbows, done properly

Exterior Termination Hood From $179

Backdraft damper, no screen, nest-resistant

Bird Nest Removal + Hood From $229

Cleared and fitted so it cannot recur

Booster Fan Installation From $549

Where a long run genuinely cannot be shortened

When Cleaning the Vent Is Not Enough

A dryer vent that is merely dirty gets cleaned. A dryer vent that is crushed, too long, routed wrongly, built from the wrong material or terminating somewhere it should not needs repairing, and no amount of cleaning will fix any of those. The symptom that distinguishes them is persistence: if your dryer takes two cycles to dry a load, and it still does a month after the vent was cleaned, the duct itself is the problem.

This matters more than it sounds, because a restricted dryer vent is a genuine fire risk rather than an inconvenience. Lint is extremely combustible, a restricted duct accumulates it faster than a clear one, and the dryer's own heating element runs longer and hotter when it cannot exhaust properly. Clothes dryers cause thousands of residential fires in the United States every year and failure to clean and maintain the vent is the leading identified cause.

The installations we find in Los Angeles housing are frequently wrong in ways the homeowner has no reason to know about. Flexible foil or vinyl duct that should never have been used indoors — it is explicitly prohibited by code for this application because it traps lint in its ribs and burns. Runs that are far longer than the permitted equivalent length, with too many elbows. Ducts crushed behind a dryer pushed hard against a wall. Terminations into a crawlspace, an attic or a garage rather than outdoors.

The repair is almost always a matter of making the installation correct rather than anything exotic: rigid or semi-rigid smooth-wall metal duct, the shortest practical route, a proper exterior termination with a backdraft damper and no screen, and mechanical support. It is a half-day job in most houses. Call (818) 536-7759.

What Goes Wrong With Dryer Vents and How We Fix It

Four findings account for most dryer vent repair work. Three of them are installation faults rather than wear, which means they have been costing the homeowner time and money since the day the dryer was fitted.

1

Crushed Duct Behind the Dryer

The most common single finding, and usually caused by pushing the dryer back against the wall to gain floor space. Flexible duct behind the appliance gets folded flat or kinked into a tight radius, and the airflow through it collapses. Most people never see it because the dryer is in front of it. The repair is a rigid periscope-style duct or a properly supported semi-rigid section with a correct bend radius, which also lets the dryer sit closer to the wall than a flexible duct safely can. It is inexpensive and it frequently fixes the drying time outright.

Usually fixes drying time on its own — from $149
2

Wrong Material — Foil or Vinyl Flex

Flexible foil and plastic vinyl duct are sold in hardware shops and are prohibited by code for dryer exhaust, for good reason. The ribbed interior traps lint at every ridge, the material offers far more flow resistance than smooth-wall duct, and foil and vinyl will burn or melt in a lint fire rather than contain it. We find it constantly, often concealed inside a wall cavity where it should never be. Replacement with rigid smooth-wall metal duct is the fix, and inside a wall or any concealed space rigid metal is the only acceptable material.

Prohibited by code — replace with rigid metal
3

Run Too Long, Too Many Elbows, or Badly Routed

Code limits dryer duct to a maximum equivalent length, and every elbow counts as several feet of additional equivalent length against that allowance. A run with four or five elbows can exceed the limit while being short in actual measured distance, which is why a 'short' vent can still perform badly. Second-floor laundries and laundries relocated into interior closets are the usual offenders. The repair may be re-routing to a shorter path, reducing the elbow count, or where neither is possible, fitting a booster fan designed for the application.

Elbows count as extra length — re-route or boost
4

Bad Termination, Screens and Bird Nests

The exterior termination should have a backdraft damper that opens with airflow and closes when the dryer stops, and it must not have an insect screen — a screen on a dryer vent clogs with lint within weeks and is a frequent cause of a vent that was cleaned and promptly blocked again. We also find terminations discharging into attics, crawlspaces and garages, which dumps warm moist lint-laden air into the structure. Bird nests in the termination are common across the Valley; the fix is removal plus a proper damper hood that excludes nesting without screening.

Never fit a screen — damper hood instead

Signs Your Dryer Vent Needs Repair, Not Just Cleaning

The distinguishing symptom is persistence. If these continue after the vent has been cleaned, the duct itself is at fault and cleaning it again will not change anything.

The dryer still takes two cycles to dry a load a month or more after the vent was last cleaned
The laundry room gets hot and humid while the dryer runs, which means exhaust is not leaving the building
A burning or hot-lint smell during a cycle — stop using the dryer and call, this is the serious one
Flexible foil or white vinyl duct visible behind the dryer, which is prohibited by code for this application
No airflow felt at the exterior vent hood while the dryer is running, or a hood that stays shut
An insect screen fitted over the exterior termination, which clogs with lint within weeks of being cleared

How a Dryer Vent Repair Runs

Most repairs are completed in a single visit of two to four hours. A full re-route through finished space takes longer and we tell you that before starting.

1

Inspect the whole run, not just the ends

We trace the duct from the dryer to the exterior termination, measure the actual and equivalent length, count elbows, identify the material, and check the termination. Photographed throughout.

2

Airflow measurement

We measure airflow at the exterior termination with the dryer running, which gives a number to compare against after the repair rather than an impression.

3

Written findings and options

You get the findings with the code issues identified, and where there is more than one way to fix it — re-route versus booster fan, for example — we give you both with the costs.

4

Carry out the repair

Rigid or semi-rigid smooth-wall metal duct, the shortest practical route, mechanically supported, joints taped with foil tape in the correct direction and never fastened with screws that project into the airflow to catch lint.

5

New termination and verification

A proper hood with a backdraft damper and no screen, then airflow re-measured so you can see the before and after figures, and a full cycle run to confirm the damper operates.

Dryer Vent Repair — Frequently Asked Questions

Repairing a crushed duct behind the dryer is from $149, and that is both the most common fault and the one that most often fixes drying time outright. Replacing prohibited foil or vinyl flexible duct with code-compliant rigid metal is from $249. A full re-route to a shorter path with fewer elbows is from $399. An exterior termination hood with a proper backdraft damper is from $179, or $229 including bird nest removal. A booster fan, where a long run genuinely cannot be shortened, is from $549. Call (818) 536-7759.
Because the duct itself is restricting airflow rather than being dirty, and that is a repair rather than a cleaning problem. The usual causes are a crushed or kinked duct behind the dryer, which almost nobody sees because the appliance is in front of it; flexible foil or vinyl duct whose ribbed interior creates far more flow resistance than smooth-wall metal; a run that exceeds the permitted equivalent length because of too many elbows; or a screened exterior termination that re-clogs within weeks. Cleaning a vent with any of those faults buys you a few weeks at most.
Yes, for dryer exhaust, and it is sold in hardware shops anyway which is how it ends up in so many houses. Flexible foil and plastic vinyl duct are prohibited for this application because the ribbed interior traps lint at every ridge, the material creates substantially more flow resistance than smooth-wall duct, and foil and vinyl will burn or melt in a lint fire rather than contain it. Inside a wall cavity or any concealed space, rigid metal is the only acceptable material. We find foil flex concealed in walls regularly and replacing it is from $249.
Genuinely dangerous rather than merely inconvenient, which is why we treat it as a safety call. Lint is extremely combustible, a restricted duct accumulates it faster than a clear one, and the dryer's heating element runs longer and hotter when it cannot exhaust properly — so the restriction creates both the fuel and the ignition conditions. Clothes dryers cause thousands of residential fires in the United States annually, and failure to clean and maintain the vent is the leading identified cause. A burning or hot-lint smell during a cycle means stop using the dryer and call.
Because lint catches on it immediately. An insect screen over a dryer termination will clog within weeks of being cleared, which is one of the most frequent reasons a vent that was properly cleaned is blocked again a month later. What the termination needs instead is a hood with a backdraft damper — a flap that opens with the airflow and closes when the dryer stops. That keeps weather, pests and nesting birds out without presenting a surface for lint to accumulate on. If your vent has a screen, removing it and fitting a proper hood is from $179.
Code limits dryer duct to a maximum equivalent length, and every elbow counts as several feet against that allowance — so a run with four or five elbows can exceed the limit while being short in measured distance. Second-floor laundries and laundries relocated into interior closets are the usual offenders. The first option is always re-routing to a shorter path or reducing the elbow count, from $399, because that fixes the cause. Where the building genuinely does not allow a shorter route, a booster fan designed for dryer exhaust is the answer, from $549. We will tell you which applies.
Outdoors, directly, and nowhere else. We regularly find terminations discharging into attics, crawlspaces and garages, which dumps warm moist lint-laden air into the structure — that is a moisture problem, a mould risk and a fire risk in one. It also means the lint is accumulating somewhere nobody is looking. The correct termination is through an exterior wall or roof with a proper damper hood, as short and direct a path as the building allows, and no screen. If yours terminates inside the building envelope, that is the first thing to fix.
Yes, and it is the sensible order — repair first, then clean, since re-routing and replacing sections disturbs lint that then wants removing. Doing both in one visit costs materially less than two appointments and we price it that way. If you are not sure whether you need cleaning or repair, describe the symptoms on the phone: if the problem persists after a previous cleaning, it is almost certainly repair. Call (818) 536-7759.
Serving the San Fernando Valley & East LA

Get Your Dryer Vent Repaired Properly

Code-compliant rigid metal, the shortest practical route, a proper damper hood with no screen, and airflow measured before and after. Serving the San Fernando Valley and East LA from 6330 Camellia Ave, North Hollywood, CA 91606.

Dryer Vent Cleaning by City

Dan covers the whole Valley and East LA — CSIA-certified, written estimate first.

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